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A Day Tour of Heidelberg — Lessons from a "Local"

submitted by Kathie Hightower

As a military spouse I was lucky enough to live in Heidelberg, Germany, for three years. I told everyone to come visit — and they did! Here's one of the many different "one day tours" I created for my friends. We always started with a visit to a local bakery for breakfast items — one of the many things I loved most about life in Germany.

Then it was off to the Saturday market in the Market Place next to the Rathaus. It's a good place to stock up on items for dinner or a picnic along the river. We enjoy making a German-style supper of meats and cheeses and bread with some fruit. There are all kinds of different olives, spiced peppers and stuffed grape leaves to add interest. And the gourmet wagon provides pâté of all kinds for fancier meals. The market is the only place I've been able to find my very favorite bread, Delikatusbrot. It is full of hazelnuts, walnuts and other nuts and seeds. Even if you don't buy anything, the market provides a lot of local color and photo opportunities.

We browsed through many of the shops on the Hauptstrasse until it was time for lunch at Vetters. You'll find Vetters right up Steingasse from the Old Bridge. With its huge copper beer tanks, hops hanging from the ceiling, and simple wooden tables and benches, it provides all the old German Gemütlichkeit you could ask for. Order the large pan of fried potatoes and Nürnburge Röstl (sausages) and beer or Apfelschorle to have with dark bread. If you want, try a glass (they are small) of the "strongest beer in the world," Vetter 33. You don't have to feel funny about taking pictures in here. I think everyone does. Our guests chose to buy some of Vetters beer-to-go as a souvenir — mainly for the novelty of the flip top bottles (great as olive oil bottles when you can't get them refilled with beer).

Leave Vetters in time to reach the Lion Fountain in Universitätsplatz by 2 pm. The tour starts here. This is a 2-hour tour called "Rediscover the Old Town on Foot." (It is also offered separately in German as well). The fee is DM 10 for adults, DM 5 for schoolchildren and students with student ID. Children under 8 go free. It is offered every Saturday throughout the year.

This tour can meet a lot of needs. First, if you are new to Heidelberg (or maybe you've been here awhile but just haven't done some of the tour stuff yet), this gives you a nice walking overview of the historic city sights. Now, you could probably do the same thing with a tour book and map, but sometimes it is just easier to follow along and listen. Second, if you do have company for the umpteenth time (or have been to Heidelberg but are traveling with others who haven't) and just can't face giving another tour of Heidelberg yourself, you can drop your guests off for the tour while you go sit in a cafe and people watch or read.

I've toured Heidelberg quite a bit on my own, but I learned some new things (and I expect I would have learned even more from the regular guide). We visited the Church of the Jesuits, the Student Prison, the Heiliggeistkirche, the Old Bridge, the University Library, the Hotel Ritter, and the home of Friedrich Ebert (president of the Weimarer Republic from 1919 to 1925). Touring his house is a nice chance to see what life was like in Heidelberg in 1919. The guide also took us into a courtyard off the Steingasse that is an example of a number of projects throughout the city. They have renovated old buildings into very nice apartments for students and young couples. Here in the middle of the city is a courtyard full of plants and flowers and trees surrounded by balconies. I wouldn't have had a clue it was there just walking by the entry on the street.

We learned that the shops attached to the Heiliggeistkirche (now selling T-shirts and souvenirs) have been around since the building of the church. We learned that the McDonalds (where I always take guests for photos of the most beautiful McDonalds I've ever seen) is in the old Court Apothecary. McDonalds paid to have it renovated. I had never before noticed the unfinished lion sculptures on the side of the Old Bridge facing away from old town— apparently the city ran out of money before they were finished.

The tour ends below the castle with a brief history of the castle. We learned that the castle was saved from complete destruction (as Heidelberg citizens were taking the stones for other building projects) through the efforts of a Frenchman.

At this point, you can choose to walk up to the castle for that tour (or ride the funicular up if you don't want the bit of strenuous exercise). Or save that for your next day and take time for Kaffee and Kuchen at one of the many wonderful Konditorei in town. After all, you are in Germany. The afternoon cake and coffee tradition is what I loved most about life in Germany! ### (Please note: Tour rates and times are subject to change.)


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