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Gold Beach, Oregon

What We Did On Summer Vacation

National Treasures - Crater Lake & The Rogue River.

By Rob Brost, Co-founder Christine Columbus

What with this busy and growing business and other responsibilities, long protracted vacations have not been possible for us this year. Instead we have taken short two or three day vacations around the Pacific Northwest. We told you about our trip last fall to Joseph, Oregon, up in the northeast corner of this state, a surprising and gorgeous area. Last month we drove to southern Oregon to visit Crater Lake and the Pacific coast from Crescent City, CA north, stopping in Gold Beach, OR at the mouth of the Rogue River.

Crater Lake National Park

Crater Lake should be on everyone's must-see list. Looming up from high desert of mid eastern Oregon on the east side of the Cascade mountains, Crater Lake surprises visitors because the area gives no clues as to what is hidden just over the rise; stunningly blue water coupled with spectacular vistas are what await. As the country's deepest lake at an astounding 1,943 feet it's also one of the deepest in the world - it has awed people for generations. During summer, visitors may navigate the Rim Drive around the lake, enjoy boat tours on the lake surface, stay in the historic Crater Lake Lodge, camp at Mazama Village, or hike some of the park's various trails including Mt. Scott at 8,929 ft. The winter brings some of the heaviest snowfall in the country, averaging 533 inches per year and much of the park is inaccessible. You need to plan ahead as the park is closed by snow from mid-October to early July most years.

Crater Lake
Crater Lake
Wizard Island
Click for enlarged view (47 KB)

Our traveling companions on this trip were Annette's childhood family-like friends, Dolores (who she affectionately calls her 2nd Mom) from Palm Harbor, Florida and Carol (from Ft. Gratiot, Michigan) Dolores' daughter who is the only sister Annette has ever had. While both have been to Oregon many times it was Dolores lifetime wish to see Crater Lake, so there we went. We drove from Portland and stayed in Roseburg (about 275 miles and 80 miles from Crater Lake), on the western side of the Cascades, because accommodations in the Crater Lake area are limited unless you are campers (the lodge is booked 1 to 2 years in advance). The drive over the mountains to Crater Lake winds along the Umqua River (fly fishermen take note), a designated Oregon scenic route is a breathtakingly beautiful drive taking about 2 hours to reach the crater's edge. The weather was perfect, cloudless blue skies and a high of 78 degrees. Surprisingly, Crater Lake is about 5 miles across but the air is so clean the opposite side looks to be much closer. The unbelievably blue water is derived from the blue light spectrum that gets absorbed by the deep clean water that is reflected from the sky. This lake is so pure and clean as no water flows in or out of this caldera. Wizard Island the volcanic formation located on the western edge is the lakes only obstruction rising 6,940 ft. from the floor of the lake, so named as its resemblance to a wizard's hat. On the south side lies the Crater Lake Lodge and visitors' center, which has been recently renovated. We snagged a couple of the hand carved rocking chairs (available to only the quick--like a round of musical chairs) just outside the dinning area overlooking the craters rim. We reluctantly too soon gave up our seats to sample the fine Northwest cuisine served at the Lodge. Lunch at the Lodge is delicious however they take no reservations for lunch so get there early - opens at 11:30am and sadly few window seats are available. Afterwards we walked off our meal around the park taking in the scenic beauty, then back in the car and head out west to the Pacific coast. Crater Lake Lodge
Crater Lake Lodge
Click for enlarged view (47 KB)
The Drive to Highway 101 on the Pacific Coast

We took a road through the southern entrance to the park heading to Grants Pass (about 2 hours) and US Hwy 5 (the main highway north/south through Washington, Oregon and California from the Canadian border to Mexico).

Butte Creek Mill

We detoured slightly off our course for a must stop at Eagle Point, Oregon to surprise our former neighbors Bob and Debbie Russell who only weeks before purchased the only Grist Mill still milling flour in Oregon. Their newly acquired Butte Creek Mill was both a surprise and a relief for us to see. It's not everyday that friends tell you that they're moving and buying a flour mill, after all what did they know about milling grain? What they have going for them are the wonderful products produced by the mill, their resourcefulness and a great staff of employees (from the former owner) willing to show Bob and Debbie the ropes, including the Miller whose been at it for twenty years. Bob's love of antiques and collection is well known to us as we've been frequent guests of the Russell's (now for sale) home where his collection rivals most small town museums.

The Butte Creek Mill (listed on the national register of historic places) is worth the visit - the charming mill with idyllic creek setting complete with country store, and soon-to-open antique shop housed next-door in the old Ladino Cheese Factory Building. The country store is fully stocked with a multitude of products from the mill, as well an abundance of country store items. Bob and Debbie have great plans for their mill and we look forward to their progress and success. If you're in the neighborhood stop by and say, "Hey!" Oh! and a very big THANKS to Officer Leonard for taking pity on us city folk and not issuing me a ticket for my speeding and two stop signs missed while in town. After all he could see I had three women in the car…all providing helpful directions. Whew!

Butte Creek Mill
Butte Creek Mill
Click for enlarged view (36 KB) Mill Owners, The Russell's
Mill Owners,
The Russell's
Click for enlarged view (33 KB)
Back On The Road Again

Our visit was short, as we needed to reach Gold Beach, Oregon by dusk. Back on the road to Grant Pass and onto the coast the only road that runs in a southwestern direction is Hwy 199 through Cave Junction, OR (the location of the Oregon Caves National Monument) down into California to just north of Crescent City (another 2-1/2 hours). If driving this route, you'll want to remember two things; 1) Drive slowly through the canyon--on the California side where they say the road is narrow and winding for the next 14 miles, they mean it! And 2) Give yourself plenty of time - remember you're on vacation and driving is supposed to be relaxing. We then connected to Highway 101 (famed Pacific Coast Highway) and drove north back into Oregon and to our bed and breakfast the Rogue Reef Inn, B &B in Gold Beach. Innkeepers Wally and Jeri Honeycutt were most gracious to late arriving and early to leave guests (we're sorry we didn't have time to enjoy the spectacular inn - worth a much longer visit!) After a full day of sightseeing and driving we dinned at Spinner's Seafood, Steak and Chophouse for a delicious award-winning meal the perfect close to a wonderful day.
Rogue Reef Inn B&B
Rogue Reef Inn, B&B
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Gold Beach

Originally called Ellensberg, gold was discovered on beaches and waters of the Rogue River in 1852 and mined for the next several decades. The town changed its name to Gold Beach in 1891. However the beach could be aptly named for its change of color at sunset - the rich golden sunsets majestically casts its hues upon this pristine sand beach. Lying about 400 miles from both Portland and San Francisco, it is a bit remote but offers some of the greatest outdoor recreation anywhere. Just north lies the new golf links at Brandon Dunes Golf Resort, acclaimed to be one of the leading golf resorts in the world. But that's not why we came. Our plan was to ride the jet mail boats up the Rogue River and witness the wonders of one of the few Federally protected Wild and Scenic Rivers. And what a trip it is! There are two jet boat operators in Gold Beach and we selected Mail Boats Hydro-Jet Boats because it was the original (since 1895) mail boat operator still delivering the U.S. mail. In fact, when I was a teenager, my parents took me on this mail boat trip in the 60's before they had jet boats, just ordinary motorboats. And they did deliver the mail - house by house all the way to Agness, a small town about 34 miles up-river. I remember on one occasion a dog swam out to the boat and they threw him the mail in a waterproof pouch, which he grabbed and swam back. Very memorable.

You can choose among three trips, 64, 80, or 104 miles (round-trip) taking you further into the wilderness and into serious rapids and wetness. All trips stop in Agness for lunch and your choice of three lodging/dining alternatives, cafe  style, buffet, and all-you-can-eat fried chicken. Boats leave around 8am and return at 2pm.

Rogue River
Rogue River
Click for enlarged view (47 KB) Rogue River Mail Boat Ride
Rogue River
Mail Boat Ride
Click for enlarged view (47 KB) Lunch at Agness
Lunch at Agness
Click for enlarged view (46 KB)

Well, this is a gorgeous trip perfect for anyone, any age. It was truly the high point of our short but memorable trip - the river is beautiful and peaceful, the water's clean and clear, the air crisp and fresh (you need the layered look as it is chilly in the morning and hot and sunny in the afternoon - take a tight fitting hat!, sunscreen and bottled water), and the wildlife: Wow, we saw bald eagles, osprey, river otters, deer, hawks, and even a bear chowing down on a Northwest favorite - blackberries. Our very skilled skipper safely maneuvered our boat making our trip educational, enjoyable, and a ton of fun adventure! A thoroughly enjoyable day. If you like to taste the great outdoors in a Pacific Northwest forest and river scene, this is a trip to go out of your way for.

Kayaker & Dog
Kayaker & Dog
Click for enlarged view (33 KB)

We planned to drive that same day up to Newport Beach our favorite relaxing get-away spot, and popular fishing and art colony about 175 miles on the coast, and spend the night there but an unplanned commitment forced us to drive all the way back to Portland that same day. As driver, this was not the best plan. But we made it and came back with many great memories, a lifetime dream come true and a promise to visit again and again - there's just so much more to see!



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